Ferret Footnotes

Monthly Newsletter of the
Ferret Lovers' Club of Texas

JANUARY 1998
NUTRITION / POISONOUS PLANTS

JANUARY MEETING TOPIC: FERRET NUTRITION

The Discussion Topic for the January meeting was ferret nutrition. Many, many thanks are due to Dr. Jerry Murray, DVM, for his contributions during the meeting and extensive followup research after the meeting. His additional contributions are noted throughout this article. Thanks also to Blanca Martinez for bringing in a huge variety of foods to analyze. During the meeting, over 30 food labels were analyzed, and the group was amazed at how few foods met the minimum requirements for ferrets.

Introduction

Ferrets have special nutritional needs, so it is important that your ferrets eat a dry food that best matches their requirements. Just because a food says "ferret" does not mean it fills the needs of your ferrets. Reading labels and selecting the right ferret food can make the difference in health, lifespan, looks, and behavior. Ferrets have a quick (3 hour) digestive turnaround, so foods must have easily digestible, nutritious, high-quality ingredients to make sure the nutrients are absorbed in this short time period, and not eliminated.

Reading Labels

The purpose of this article is to teach you how to read a nutrition label so you can decide which foods are good for your ferret, and which may be inadequate. We will focus on two portions of the label: the guaranteed analysis, and the ingredient listing. The guaranteed analysis will list percentages of protein, fat, fiber, moisture, and taurine, among other things. Ferrets need certain percentages, which we will discuss below.

The ingredients list each ingredient in the food, with the highest percentage ingredient listed first, second-highest second, and so on. However, the percentages themselves are not listed, so we have incomplete information. For example, two foods could list their top ingredients in the same order: chicken meal, rice flour, and corn gluten meal. But the first food could be chicken meal (45%), rice flour (10%), and corn gluten meal (5%) and the second food could be chicken meal (25%), rice flour (23%), and corn gluten meal (20%). Although the ingredient list was the same, these foods are vastly different. It is unfortunate that manufacturers do not provide us with the percentage information in the ingredient listing.

Protein Requirements

Ferrets need a high protein (32%-38%) diet. Pet foods list these percentages on the label; however, just reading the percentages does not tell the whole story. Proteins should come from animal, not vegetable, sources. Ferrets have difficulty using or digesting vegetable proteins for two reasons. First, vegetable proteins do not have a complete amino acid chain required for the ferret. Second, vegetable proteins take 4-6 hours to digest, so most are passed through and not absorbed in the 3-hour timespan of the ferret's digestive system. Additionally, the products from plant proteins make the urine alkaline, and this can lead to uroliths (sand or bladder stones), which can cause a painful death.

The primary protein source for a ferret (and the first ingredient on the label) should be chicken meat or chicken/poultry by-product meal. Secondary sources of protein, such as meat meal, whole eggs, liver meal, bone meal, or fish meal, should be listed 3rd through 5th on the ingredient label. Beef products may be difficult for a ferret to digest, but research is uncertain on this topic. Most ferret owners avoid beef. Lamb is a good ingredient, especially for ferrets with allergies to poultry. Foods low in meat proteins can cause coat problems, bone problems, and gastrointestinal diseases.

Vegetable proteins such as soyflour, soybean meal, corn gluten meal, or cereal grains (wheat, oats, barley, rye, or rice) should be avoided in large quantities; foods that list any of these as their first ingredient should NOT be fed to a ferret. However, you are likely to see these ingredients in the top five, because grain flours are necessary for carbohydrates and also binding the food together. The key is to avoid a long listing of grain flours. For example, the listing [poultry meal, corn flour, brewer's rice, chicken fat, corn gluten meal] has too many vegetable protein sources in the first 5 ingredients. In fact, from a total guaranteed percentage of 35% protein, over half could be from vegetable sources, thus leaving only 18% usable protein for the ferret. A better ingredient list would be [chicken, corn meal, poultry fat, bone meal, rice flour] in which more of the ingredients in the top five are from meat sources.

Another potential problem source of protein is dairy products. Most ferrets are lactose intolerant and seem unable to utilize the proteins provided by milk and its byproducts. Avoid ingredients such as milk, whey, casein, or cheese, especially in the top five ingredients. Whey seems to be a common culprit in ferret food allergies.

Fat Requirements

Ferrets also need a high fat (19%-22%) diet which allows them to digest the proteins and provides for their energy needs. Fat is a concentrated source of energy and provides vitamins A, D, E, and K. Again, sources of fat should be animal, not vegetable. Chicken or poultry fat should be the second or third ingredient in the list. Fish oil is a good source of Omega-3 dietary fatty acid, which is good for your ferret (it helps with allergies, itchy skin, arthritis, heart disease, and renal failure). Red meat fats (such as beef tallow) are not desirable; and have the undesirable Omega-6 fatty acid, which may contribute to renal disease. Vegetable fats such as corn oil, lecithin, or vegetable oils do not allow ferrets to digest proteins properly, and should not be listed in the first five ingredients. Furthermore, safflower oil, also containing Omega-6, could lead to renal disfunction. The diet should not be too high in fat, or ferrets will eat less, thus getting less protein, minerals, and vitamins.

Carbohydrates

A high-quality, simple carbohydrate should be listed second or third in the ingredient list. This should be in the form of brewers rice or rice flour. Corn and wheat flours or grains are more complex carbohydrates that are not as easily used by the ferret (they also contain more fiber). Corn, however, is a popular ingredient due to its ready availability and low cost.

Ferrets love the taste of sweet foods, but sweets are usually in the form of complex carbohydrates. Ferrets don't have significant amounts of intestinal flora to break down complex carbohydrates, so these should be avoided. Furthermore, eating a diet rich in carbohydrates can lead to a reduced intake of necessary proteins and fats, which can lead to disease. Sugars should not appear in the ingredient list. Fruit juices should also be avoided. Beet pulp is a common sweetener, and is an acceptable ingredient.

Fiber

Ferrets do not have a large intestine (cecum) with which to process fiber, so a low-fiber food is necessary. Fiber levels should be 2.5% or less, which eliminates many of the premium cat foods (3% or more fiber) and almost all dog foods. Additional fiber means that your ferret will absorb less nutrients and eliminate more waste. The best source of fiber in ferret food is beet pulp. Beet pulp contains ingredients that inhibit the growth of bad bacteria such as E. coli or salmonella, so it appears to be beneficial to your ferret.

Starch/Extruded versus Pelleted Foods

A good ferret food requires a properly cooked starch to hold the nutrients together until eaten. Properly cooked starches are in "extruded" foods, which has a crunchy texture and interesting shape. Improperly cooked starches result in poorly digested foods; these are the "pelleted" foods that look like long, slender rabbit food pellets. In addition, pelleted foods have a higher moisture content and are less "concentrated" (extruded foods are compressed under high pressure). Therefore pelleted foods have less nutrition "per serving" than extruded foods, meaning your ferret must eat more (and eliminate more waste) to get proper nutrition levels.

Other Ingredients

Taurine is thought to be an important supplement for vision. Taurine is an essential amino acid, along with lysine and methionine. Deficiencies in these important ingredients could cause blindness or heart problems. Plant proteins are very low in taurine, so look for added taurine and meat ingredients.

Another good ingredient is Brewer's Yeast, a good vitamin B supplement. Also look for low ash content (less than 7%). A premium ferret food should provide the rest of the necessary vitamins and minerals; space requirements do not allow us to cover them all here.

Dyes, Fillers, Preservatives

Dyes are unhealthy additives to a ferret food, and fillers just mean less food, less nutrition, and more waste. Avoid dyes and fillers. Many pet foods use preservatives such as BHT, BHA, and ethoxyquin (to keep fats from becoming rancid). Some people feel that these ingredients are carcinogens. Others argue that without them, fats go rancid, and rancid fats are also carcinogens. At this time, there are no definitive research studies that show the effects of these preservatives on the health of ferrets. However, your may feel more comfortable avoiding these artificial preservatives in favor of natural preservatives such as Vitamin E and ascorbic acid (Vitamin C).

Shape/Texture

Smaller, textured shapes (such as kitten-sized stars or triangles) are preferred. Ferret testers prefer these shapes, and the shapes are less likely to get lodged in the roof of the mouth. Again, pellets are not recommended, not just because of the physical shape and texture, but because of the incomplete cooking process. Of course, soft or canned foods should not be fed because these foods promote tooth decay.

Packaging

Heat, light, and moisture are all damaging to ferret foods. Plastic bags are not the best packaging because they let in light, and tiny pinholes let in air, which results in rancid food. Better packaging would be a double-lined bag, with plastic on the inside and light-blocking paper on the outside.

Testing

The food you feed your ferret should have been tested and proven on ferrets. You may also wish to look for AAFCO certification on foods (lesser-quality grocery store pet foods will not have this certification).

Lifestage Considerations

Breeding ferrets, nursing jills, and kits require higher protein and fat contents than the percentages listed above, which are most applicable to nonbreeding adults ferrets. Ill ferrets (such as those with insulinoma or recovering from ECE) also have higher nutritional needs.

Older or senior ferrets can become overweight if their activity level decreases. Foods with slightly less protein and 16-18% fat may be better. Most important, if your ferret is overweight, do not switch to a cat adult-stage food, a higher-fiber "lite" food, or lower fat food with inadequate protein levels in an effort to keep your senior ferret's weight down. These foods will deny your ferret needed nutrition. Instead, increase activity levels, or switch to a food specifically designed for senior ferrets. Do not put your ferret on a diet by withholding food. Because of the high metabolism of ferrets, they need to eat frequently (every few hours throughout the day and night).

Palatability

No matter how healthy the food, if it does not taste good to the ferrets, they will not eat it. Unfortunately, many of the unhealthier foods are more palatable to ferrets. Some contain high amounts of sugars. Others (typically grocery-store cat foods) are commonly coated with animal fat or sprayed with phosphoric acid to make them more tasty. This makes your job of switching from a poor-quality but tasty food to a high-quality, less palatable food more difficult.

Switching Foods

Whenever you wish to change your ferret's diet, it is important to switch slowly. Mix the old and the new food, and gradually increase the proportion of new food so that after a few weeks, there is only new food. In extreme cases for very finicky eaters, you may have to liquefy the new food and feed through an oral syringe until the new food is accepted. In some cases this procedure is necessary when a ferret only wishes to eat a food that is literally killing the ferret (such as dog food).

Food Amounts

Food should be made available at all times, or "free fed." Do NOT follow instructions on labels (typically for kittens or cats) that indicate once or twice daily feeding of a controlled amount. Again, the fast digestive process of the ferret requires a new meal every few hours, 24-hours per day.

Food Cost

The protein quality of commercial foods drives its price, because protein is the highest-cost ingredient, and high-quality proteins (such as those from muscle meat) cost much more than low-quality proteins (grains, feathers, indigestible tissues). Ferrets must eat much more of a low-quality food than a premium brand to meet their nutritional requirements. A high-quality, concentrated food costs more per pound to buy, but not much more to feed, because the ferret has to eat less. Additionally, potentially expensive health problems can be avoided if a higher-quality diet is fed, so the bottom-line savings may be substantial.

Supplements and Treats

With a good, nutritious, well-balanced food, supplements and treats are not necessary for your ferret's health. However, ferrets enjoy the occasional treat, drop of oil, or reward. Fatty acid supplements (such as Linatone or Ferretone) are healthy if given in moderate quantities. Treats should be given sparingly, and all treats should avoid refined sugars, dairy products, or chocolate products.

Water

The best food is useless unless fed with adequate water. A ferret needs a constant supply of fresh water (changed daily). Ferrets must have water in their gut to digest food and absorb nutrients. Water also helps flush out impurities that can lead to health problems. Ferrets drink more from water dishes than water bottles, so a heavy crock is ideal.

Conclusion

Ferret Lovers' Club of Texas members rated over 30 brands of foods fed to ferrets. Dog food of any kind should not be fed to ferrets. Grocery-store cat and kitten foods had the worst nutrition, and were loaded with dyes and fillers. Even some foods specifically labeled for ferrets were of poor quality. Many premium kitten and ferret foods were eliminated due to their extremely high corn contents (multiple corn ingredients such as ground corn, corn meal, corn flour, and corn gluten) or high fiber levels (greater than 3%). Others did not have appropriate sources or levels of protein and fat. Top foods rated were Totally Ferret, Iams Kitten, and Eukanuba Lamb & Rice. Acceptable foods, but with reservations, were Sheppard & Greene, Nutro-Max kitten, Marshall Farms, and Science Diet. New foods are coming out all the time, so always check the labels and choose for yourself.

FERRET OF THE MONTH COVER PHOTO

Romeo lounges on his new sleeper. Romeo, a sable male, owns club member Karen Farrow and sometimes shares his sleeper with Little Girl, a sable female, but does not stoop to sharing with the cats!

Would you like your ferret to be featured as a cover photo? Or published in the new handbook? Send photographs to the editor (see page 2), and with a SASE, they will be returned. Be sure to identify the ferret, and mark the photo with your name and address.

POISONOUS HOUSE PLANTS

By Dr. Jill A Richardson, DVM
Veterinary Poison Information Specialist
ASPCA National Animal Poison Control Center
www.napcc.aspca.org

In Part 2 of having a poison-safe household (Part 1 in 12/97 issue of Ferret Footnotes), Dr. Richardson has compiled a list of plants that are toxic to ferrets. Many of these are common house plants, so take a close look at this list, and keep your ferret safe!

WELCOME NEW MEMBERS in JANUARY!

Brian, Sheila, Keith, and Chris Batdorf (owned by Daisey, Al, and Peggy), Arlington, TX

Stella Jenkins and Craig Macaulay (owned by Mr. Woo, Dharma, and Fee), Dallas, TX

Meri Wilkinson (owned by Rupert and Luke), Plano, TX

Don & Stephanie Fenton (owned by Rio and Frampton), Plano

Michael Pardue (owned by M. Rascal and Sadie Brook), Wichita Falls, TX

Kimbrough Animal Hospital, Longview, TX (Dr. K.B. Kimbrough, DVM, and Dr. Susan Little, DVM)

Kelly Mazzei (owned by Lit'l Guy), Fairbanks, Alaska

Steve White (owned by The Duke), Dallas, TX

FERRET LOVERS' CLUB OF TEXAS
INFORMATION SOURCES

MONTHLY MEETINGS

Come to one of our informative meetings! Meetings are held on the second Sunday of each month at 2:00 p.m. Meeting topics vary from month to month (suggestions are welcome!). Meetings rotate through households throughout the metroplex, and we try to alternate between ECE and Non-ECE households. To find out about meetings, dial:

THE FERRET HOTLINE

Questions about directions to the next meeting? Recommended vets in your area? Or just need information? Call the ferret hotline at metro (817) 498-1470. Emergency response is available.

THE ONLINE MAILING LIST: (Note changes as of 1/98)

Have an email address? Join the online mailing list and "talk" to all the other members with a single message. To subscribe, send an email message to LISTSERV@mail.global.org and put two lines in the body of the message:

SUBSCRIBE dfw-ferret YourEmailAddress
SET MODE DIGEST dfw-ferret

You can also elect to:

SET MODE STANDARD dfw-ferret

if you would like each posting to appear as a real-time separate message, instead of all postings put together in a single message mailed out the next morning.

Once you are subscribed, you will receive a FAQ about how the mailing list works. Don't lose this document! Once subscribed, you can post messages to DFW-FERRET@global.org or DFW-FERRET@mail.global.org

SHELTER FEATURE FERRETS

READY TO ADOPT: HUCK AND DAISY

Daisy - a red-eyed-white MF female, about 5 years old. Huck - a red-eyed-white MF male, about 3-1/2 years old. Daisy was originally surrendered to a petstore after living with a girl in a Volkswagen for several weeks and eating rabbit food. She was resold to a person with three small children, who then bought Huck as a companion. The kids got bored taking care of the ferrets, and would not clean their litterbox, and their dad hated the smell. Neither ferret has health problems to date, are current on distemper shots, seem to get along with other ferrets, and are ready to adopt!

Ms. WEASEL NEEDS A SPONSOR

Weasel - a light sable female, about 4.5 years old. Teenage owner went off to college. Parents felt they couldn't give enough time to Weasel to make her life happy. So now she has lost her home and come to the shelter. She has Marshall Farms tattoos. She has had adrenal surgery, but is showing signs of other health problems. Ms. Weasel needs a sponsor!

SHELTER WISH LIST

The shelter has reached its capacity, in both number of ferrets and ability to financially handle so many special medical needs. Please spread the word that there are dozens of adoptable ferrets of all ages at the shelter, from $25-$75. The shelter also needs donations of the following supplies: paper towels, bleach, litter, hairball medication, vaccines, food (Iams kitten or Totally Ferret), and other medications. You can also help by sponsoring or fostering a needy ferret. Check out the new web site for the Ferrets First Rescue and Shelter at www.flash.net/~ffrs

Please help if you can. If you wish to make a donation, become a sponsor, or request an adoption application packet, please contact shelter director Patricia Curtis at metro (817) 596-0558. Or at ffrs@flash.net