Ferret Footnotes

Monthly Newsletter of the
Ferret Lovers' Club of Texas

JULY 1997
TRAINING YOUR FERRET

TRAINING YOUR FERRET
July Meeting Topic

Several training topics are covered here. A key training point is that ferrets are intelligent and can be taught. However, they do not respond well to punishment, and instead need repetition and reward. Ferrets have attention "points" rather than attention "spans" and you must get the ferret's attention. Never hit a ferret, thump him on the nose, or inflict pain. The ferret will then associate humans and hands with pain and will react accordingly. The ferret will also lose all trust with you. Instead, stop bad behaviors and reward good behaviors.

Litter Box Training

Ferrets can be trained to use a litter pan. The younger the ferret, the better. At first, confine the ferret to a small area, such as the cage. There should be room for the ferret's food, sleeping area, and the litter pan. The ferret will soon get the idea where the bathroom is. Ferrets will pick a spot, usually in a private corner somewhere, and return to that spot when they have to eliminate. They also have short legs and a low profile, so to them, a room looks awfully big and the closest corner to them looks most inviting. Therefore, they may choose more than one corner in a room or one corner in each room and you will need to provide them with extra litter pans. In some areas where a litter pan won't fit, newspaper can be used. It may have to be taped down so the ferret realizes that it's not a toy to crawl under or rustle around in! Another thing you can try is Tupperware-type dishes (that are smaller than the average litter pan, but still big enough for the ferret to have room to do his duty) in spaces where regular litter pans won't fit.

Placing a little feces on the paper or in the litterbox can sometimes help the ferret to understand what the paper or box is for. Set him in it a few times, especially if he hasn't gone for a while, and keep setting him in it until he finally does relieve himself. Praise your ferret when he does the right thing. You might even give him a treat. But don't let him trick you! Some ferrets will learn the motion of backing into the end and pretending to go just to get the treat. Let them know the difference between the desired results and none.

Don't punish your ferret. Ferrets do not relate having their noses rubbed in their feces with the fact that they missed the pan. All this action does is alienate your pet from you and may actually cause him to pick more unwanted spots because his desired spot has been ruled off limits. If he still doesn't cooperate, even though you've got wall-to wall litter boxes, don't despair. Another important factor to realize is that ferrets have very short digestive systems. Approximately 3 to 5 hours after a ferret eats something, the unabsorbed leftovers are going to exit the other end. Also, ferrets will often eat and then settle down for a nap. These naps will often last until the ferret is hungry again or until you come to wake him up. Waking the ferret will often trigger his body's need to eliminate, but in his excitement over seeing you, he suppresses it temporarily. If you know that your ferret ate at a certain time, or if he just woke up, leave him in his cage until he uses his litter box. If he seems reluctant to go and is more intent on getting out, walk away for awhile and then come back and check his pan to see if he has gone in it. If he still hasn't done anything, use the "placing him in the pan repeatedly" method and he should eventually get the idea. It is a good idea to set him in the litter pan after he has been out for a while, too. This will help prevent further accidents from happening.

Some ferrets will seem to have the right idea and head to the corner with the litter box in it, only to go right next to the box! Once again, setting him in the box repeatedly should help him get the idea. You may want to try using different litter. Some ferrets don't like the feel of clay litter between their toes. Pelleted newspaper, shredded egg crates, denatured pine pellets, or alfalfa pellets, may be tried. DO NOT USE CEDAR SHAVINGS or other types of wood shavings! They can cause respiratory problems in ferrets. The ONLY wood shavings safe for ferrets are aspen shavings, which are difficult to find. Clumping cat litters should not be used, unless you place the powder under other forms of litter so the ferret does not have access to the clumping litter (make sure the ferret is not a digger). Clumping litters are easily inhaled by ferrets, and then expand to three times their size in the ferret's lungs. Additionally, ferrets "wipe their bottoms" after using their litterpan, and clumping litter particles can adhere to the ferret, and absorb too much moisture from soft tissue. This is especially dangerous for kits.

Another way of keeping your ferret away from places where he shouldn't go is to spray the forbidden areas with rubbing alcohol or white vinegar. Most ferrets can't stand the smell of alcohol and will avoid these areas. Because rubbing alcohol evaporates fast, you may have to apply it several times until your critter gives up. Others recommend spraying bitter apple, bitter lime, or chili powder in areas you wish your ferret would leave alone.
For litter problems inside the cage, limiting the ferret's open areas can generally help. Ferrets don't like to soil their bedding or food. Arrange the contents of the cage so all he has room for is food, bedding, and litter pan. This can be done by either putting a large pan in his cage or adding extra bedding to cover all the bare areas until he changes his habits. Multilevel cages can cause problems; you may need to place pans on more than one level.

Patience and perseverance are very important. Some ferrets that have been really good with their litter boxes can suddenly stop using them. Assuming that it's not a medical problem where the ferret is losing control of his bowels, look to see if anything has changed in your house or in your ferret's daily routine. Have you moved the furniture? Is there a new pet or person in the house? Are you letting him out at a different time than usual? All these factors can change your ferret's habits. Most of the time, gently reminding him where the litter box is can be enough. Sometimes, if there is a new ferret, you may have to get an additional litter pan until your ferret gets used to the new pet. Some ferrets refuse to share their pans and you many need to keep a separate pan on a permanent basis.
A clean litter pan is also important. Ferrets do not cover their waste, so scooping is a daily necessity and will help minimize odor. Also clean the pan thoroughly, with a mild disinfectant, at least once a week, depending on the number of ferrets using the pan. Ferrets are more likely to use a clean pan. The dirtier the litterbox, the more likely the ferret will find another place to go.

Ferrets may be picky about their pans. Some do not like corner (triangular) litter pans. Others prefer low sides for easy entry and exit. Still others require a pan large enough for them to stretch their whole body out in.
In a pet carrier, place the litterpan at the back, and secure it into place. Fill up the rest of the space with bedding, food bowls, etc. so the ferret must use the litterpan to keep the bedding clean.

Leash Training

Walking your ferret can be an enjoyable, fun-filled experience for all involved. With a little time and effort, you can teach your ferret to look forward to exploring the great outdoors--at the end of a leash. Before you venture out; however, be aware of what is in involved in "the ferret walk." Also be aware that ferrets are not legal in many areas, or even if they are legal, are not protected by laws in a bite or scratch case. Do not risk your ferret being confiscated and euthanized by walking an illegal ferret in public, or allowing the public to handle your ferret.

You MUST use a harness on your ferret. One type is the figure-8 combination harness and leash. It is made from a single nylon cord and has either a metal button or screw bolt to secure the cord around the animal while leaving ample length for the leash. These are sold in pet stores as ferret or small animal leashes. Be careful; these one-part leashes can tighten dangerously around your pet, even asphyxiating or breaking bones, if the leash is pulled too hard. Collars alone are not recommended for walking ferrets on a leash. Because a ferret's head and neck are often similar in size and because they have very loose neck skin, they can easily slip a collar. Also, the neck and spine can be damaged from the pressure of the leash on the collar. The best type of harness is an H-Brace harness, which has independent loops around the ferret's body that do not tighten when the leash is pulled, attached to a leash. Make sure your ferret is wearing a proper identification tag in case he gets loose.

Regardless of the type of walking equipment you use, it is important to allow your ferret to become accustomed to wearing a restraint. Some may require a longer adjustment than others. You will also need to practice putting on and taking off the equipment as well as learning to fit it on the ferret. Use short training sessions (5 minutes) indoors for a few days before attempting to take the ferret outside. Always make certain that the harness is properly and comfortably sized for your ferret. Don't get a false sense of security with a harness and leash. Supervise your ferret at all times!

A walk in the park can be as relaxing for you as it is exciting for your ferret. Use common sense when choosing an area to walk in. Obviously, you will carry your pet across streets and intersections and will not take them to flea markets, carnivals, and other heavily peopled affairs. Also, do not walk your ferret through other people's yards; lawns are often treated with chemical fertilizers and pesticides that can be extremely hazardous.
The length of the walk depends on the animal's physical condition, the weather, and the time of day. If he receives regular exercise periods and is healthy, then walk until he shows signs of tiredness or appears sleepy. Typically 30 minutes is the limit.

Walking during the winter is not advisable. Ferrets do catch colds and can suffer from exposure just as you can. Walking in midday summer heat is also not recommended. Ferrets do not have sweat glands and are prone to heat stroke at temperatures above 80 degrees or can burn their feet on hot cement. Be sensible about the weather and seasonal conditions. Remember, ferrets altered before five months old may never develop true full winter coats and will feel the cold more keenly than ferrets with good winter pelts. Do not let your ferret eat dirty snow.

Should you allow strangers to hold your ferret? Probably not. Be especially careful of children. Ferrets in unfamiliar situations may nip, so keep them away from strangers. Unsuspecting owners have lost ferrets by allowing strangers to handle their pets.

Watch for unleashed dogs and be ready to grab your ferret should a dog approach. Hopefully, its owner will be close by and will restrain the dog. If not, the dog will probably lose interest once you have picked up your ferret. Move slowly and carefully away.

Do NOT take your ferret on a walk unless all vaccinations are up to date. A current rabies vaccine may be the only thing making your pet legal, and may provide some level of protection in a bite or scratch case. Protect your ferret from contracting canine distemper from dogs and the hands and clothing of strangers by keeping his distemper shots current.

Water is important consideration on a ferret walk. You may want to take along a small water bottle. Other animals' water bowls, and stream and pond water are likely to contain parasites or disease (particularly giardia) that could make your ferret extremely ill. If you use a drinking fountain, let your ferret lap it from a cup or your hand.

Ferrets require numerous small meals throughout the day. Although he may be too excited to eat, you might consider bringing a few morsels of dry food or a favorite treat. Some ferrets only feel secure outdoors if they have a place to hide when frightened or anxious. A backpack or small shoulder tote is not only ideal for this purpose but will also carry any essentials you want to take along.

Be prepared to bathe your pet after his walk. He may bring fleas home. Keep him protected with flea powder or spray prior to walking and after bathing. This also applies to tick infestations. Ferrets are susceptible to heartworms. Do not allow him to "investigate" any fecal matter or standing water. Keep your ferret on heartworm preventative if you will be taking her for a walk.

Adjust your pace to his. Even though ferrets can move swiftly, they must still expend more energy to cover the same distance as you in the same amount of time. Dragging and jerking the leash can damage his neck and spine and produce negative reactions in your pet.

Ferrets are intelligent and they will remember their last outdoor excursion as either fun or not fun. If it was a pleasant experience they will soon associate the mere presence of the leash with the great outdoors and will wait eagerly, if not impatiently, to be on their way once more.

If your ferret does not take to walking on a leash, there are other ways for them to enjoy the outdoors. They can also be trained to ride in the hood of a jacket, a pocket, or on your shoulder. You will need to practice with your ferret to teach it to do these things.

Scratching

Many ferrets will scratch at floors or carpet in an effort to get where they are not (into a closet or closed off room, for example). You can try shouting "NO" and removing your ferret from the area, but ferrets can be quite persistent. It may be easier to protect your flooring instead. Purchase some clear, plastic carpet runner, plastic floor protector, or linoleum and place under the door with the protection extending to both sides of the door and around the doorframe. The ferret will then scratch harmlessly on the plastic or linoleum, and may eventually give up. In other areas, try astroturf, or spraying the area with alcohol, vinegar, bitter apple, or pepper.

Another extremely cruel and unnecessary practice is declawing. Ferrets claws are not like a cats in a separate sheath. To declaw a ferret, each finger is amputated at the first knuckle. Imagine your own fingers amputated in such a way! The practice is cruel, terribly painful, and leaves the ferret at a disadvantage in running, climbing, or walking. No Ferret Should Ever Be Declawed.

Training Not to Bite

Biting is sometimes a bad habit that ferrets can develop. Young ferrets especially need to be taught not to bite or what type of biting is acceptable during play and what is not. Kits play-nip with each other and will nip you until trained not to do so. Ferrets have very thick skin and they learn very rough play with other ferrets. Sometimes you must let the ferret bite you in order for them to learn what is painful to you. Your index finger can be used as a "chew toy" until the ferret learns when they are biting too hard. Your skin there is the thickest and least painful when bitten.

Older ferrets typically bite out of a fear response. They bite because they have not been trained or handled properly when young, and have probably experienced physical abuse. Physical punishment that results in pain only teaches the ferret to associate pain with human hands and not the bad behavior. Ferrets may also bite if they are in pain. Seek veterinary assistance if your ferret begins biting for no apparent reason when being handled.
Unfortunately, many people inadvertently actually "train" their ferrets to bite. The ferret bites them to ask to be let down. The person reacts by thinking "FINE, then I'm not going to play with you anymore if you're going to bite," and puts the ferret down or into their cage. The ferret thinks, "Hey, Cool! It works." So, next time he wants down, he bites. So never put a ferret that's biting you down until he calms down. Keep correcting him until he gives up, then let him down. Ferrets also nip while playing, and jerking your hands away quickly causes a "chase and chomp" reaction that may be an even harder bite. Move slowly and calmly around the playing ferret.

Also don't encourage your young ferrets to bite by sticking your fingers (or letting others poke at them) through the wires of the cage, no matter how tempting the cute face is. Ferrets think it is a chew toy or treat. Always offer your knuckle or back of your hand to a ferret that is unfamiliar with you.

When the ferret does bite, say "NO" loudly. Do NOT thump your ferret on the nose! Some people recommend a light tug on the whiskers. Other recommendations include squirting your ferret in the face with water from a spray bottle or squirt gun, spraying bitter apple on your hands or feet that are being bitten, or scruffing the ferret. Never hit a ferret on the side or rear of its body as internal organs can easily be damaged. Remember, always yell "NO" when you punish your ferret. That way, they'll learn to stop when you yell. Your strict verbal command is just as important in discipline as other measures. The key to successful training is consistent discipline and handling. You must work with them every day to develop acceptable behavior.

A needless cruelty is the practice of filing down or breaking off the carnassial (canine) teeth with pliers in an attempt to prevent the ferret from biting. Doing so may stop the ferret from wanting to bite but the constant toothache will also stop its desire to eat. Once decay sets in, the ferret will die from infection if the broken teeth are not surgically removed. Please do not subject your pets to this abuse!

There are lots of other topics on ferret training. Training for special tricks will be covered in a later issue.

FERRET OLYMPICS!

The second annual Ferret Olympics will be held on Saturday, October 4 at the Grand Prairie Community Center from 2:00 - 6:00. More details will follow in later newsletters. Volunteers are needed for the show committee! Volunteers will also be needed at the show to help run booths, monitor cages, take admissions, and time events. We also need people to ask for sponsors or raffle donations.

We will have shelters present, along with vendors. Items for sale from the club will include t-shirts, greeting cards, ferret socks, clear dryer hose, ferret calendars, handbooks, etc.

This year's events will include: maze race, longest kisser, paper-sack escape, cup-tip, best weasel war dance, heaviest male, lightest female, best ferret trick, tube race, most yawns in a minute, and the best-dressed/costume contest. If you have any suggestions for other events, please feel free to give your input! We are also considering bobbing for raisins, plant digging, and climbing events.

FERRET OF THE MONTH COVER PHOTO

The Ferret of the Month Cover photo features a ferret practicing for the best-dressed costume contest in the upcoming Ferret Olympics. Photo was taken by John Porter. Would you like your ferret to be featured as a cover photo? Or published in the new handbook? Send photographs to the editor (see page 2), and with a SASE, they will be returned. Be sure to identify the ferret, include any information, and mark the photo with your name and address.

WELCOME NEW MEMBERS!

A big Welcome to new members for the month of JULY:

• Dr. Karen Lass, DVM at the Preston Park Animal Hospital
• Pamela Hallmark of Grapevine, owned by Chloe

JULY BUSINESS MEETING MINUTES

Vet Bylaws Development: Veterinarian bylaws are being updated, and a committee is being formed to work on the veterinarian quiz, or other possible ways to make sure vets are qualified to treat or give advice on ferrets.

Volunteers are needed for the Ferret Olympics! Volunteers are needed to serve on the show committee (currently led by Linda Davis, with members Larry Fewell and Michael Runyon). We also need volunteers to help at the show (cage monitoring, health checks, timing events, taking admissions, running the club booth, announcing, etc.) Additionally, we would like your help in locating vendors, sponsors, raffle item donors, and other participants in the event.

Need Fundraising Ideas. Ideas for raising funds to run the show include a spaghetti dinner, a rummage sale, a "no-bake" sale, and other items.

Meetings set for the REST OF THE YEAR!

In August, Dr. Moore will cover insulinoma. September's meeting will feature Ron Smith, Animal Cruelty Consultant. In October, we will have the Ferret Olympics (no additional meeting). November will feature ultrasounding at the office of Dr. Roger Kendrick. December will be our holiday social, and January will be nutrition.

The Rainbow Bridge....In Memoriam

Deepest sympathies are extended to Debra and Scott Thomason on the loss of their beloved ferret Laska. Laska was rescued by the Thomasons in 1993 from deplorable conditions. Laska, in Russian, means either "loving" or "weasel" and Laska the ferret was known as "Laska, the loving weasel." In memory of Laska, a sable sprite, the Thomasons are sponsoring a new rescue baby at the Ferrets First Rescue and Shelter; another sable girl taken from deplorable conditions. The Thomasons have the honor of naming the new little sable girl, and they have chosen "Tiara." We are sure that Laska's spirit will be alive in Tiara, and on behalf of all rescued ferrets, we thank the Thomasons for their generosity to the Shelter and ferrets everywhere.

FLC-TX FERRETS TO BE FEATURED IN 4-H PUBLICATION!

The Ohio State University Extension Center will be publishing the Small Animal Resource Handbook, written by Lucinda Miller as a 4-H publication. Brian Deep, with the Communications and Technology Department at Ohio State, invited the Ferret Lovers' Club of Texas to submit photos for the ferret chapter of the book.

Erika Matulich, President of FLC-TX, and Patricia Curtis, Shelter Director, reviewed the chapter materials before deciding to participate. The chapter was well-written and well-researched, and Lucinda Miller was most gracious in accepting the few changes and updates that were suggested. This will be a thoroughly educational book.

Then the work began! We had extremely short notice to submit a wide variety of photos. An e-mail was sent to the dfw-ferret emailing list requesting models for the photo session, held in Arlington. At the same time, Dr. Roger Kendrick permitted photos of several surgeries at his office. On the day of the non-medical photo session, over 30 ferret models showed up! Thanks to Linda Davis, Trish Curtis, Larry Fewell, Michael Runyon, Blanca Martinez, Nathan Viles, Kathy Lucy, and Erika Matulich for providing ferrets. Thanks to John Porter and Erika Matulich for shooting over 500 prints and slides. And many thanks to Laura Ellis for cataloging negatives.

The most thanks are due to Michael Runyon, who patiently provided a human backdrop for all the ferret holding pictures. He sweated for four hours under the hot lights, and endured several costume changes.

We took pictures of ferrets in the following categories: holding ferrets, scruffing ferrets, different ferret coloring, gender differentiation, special markings, cleaning ears, brushing teeth, trimming nails, cages, collars, harnesses, and more! Kathy Lucy provided photos of ferrets playing and ferret babies.

Any photos not used will be inventoried for our own Ferret Handbook, which is currently under revision. If you have additional photos you wish to submit for the Handbook, please do so ASAP!

The Small Animal Resource Handbook will be published in Fall, 1997. We can't wait!!!

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